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Before the sun even thinks about rising over the bustling streets of Delhi, Ramu Gupta is already on the move. His mission? To plunge into the murky depths of the Yamuna River, one of India's most polluted waterways, in search of lost coins, jewellery, and other forgotten treasures. He’s one of a growing number of nadi-doongas – river divers – risking their health and safety for a chance at a better life.

The Yamuna, like many of India's rivers, carries a heavy burden of industrial waste, sewage, and agricultural runoff. The water is often thick with pollutants, and the riverbed is littered with debris. Yet, despite the obvious dangers, these divers brave the conditions daily, armed with little more than a simple bag, a makeshift mask, and unwavering determination.

“It’s a tough life, but we have to do what we can to survive,” says Ramu, 35, who has been diving in the Yamuna for over a decade. “Sometimes we find nothing. Other times, we get lucky and find something valuable.” His earnings, when he’s successful, go towards supporting his family and sending his children to school.

The allure of hidden riches is strong, fueled by stories of lost valuables from festivals, religious ceremonies, and even crimes. Over the centuries, rivers have acted as silent witnesses to countless events, and many items have been lost or discarded within their waters. The divers believe that these treasures still lie waiting to be discovered.

But the risks are significant. Exposure to polluted water can lead to skin infections, respiratory problems, and even more serious illnesses. The riverbeds themselves are hazardous, with hidden currents, sharp objects, and the constant threat of getting trapped in debris. Many nadi-doongas work without safety equipment or proper training, making them even more vulnerable.

The practice of river diving is largely unregulated, and the divers often operate in the shadows, wary of authorities and potential conflicts with those who might also be searching for treasure. While some are independent operators, others work for local traders who buy the recovered items.

The plight of the nadi-doongas highlights a larger issue: the degradation of India's rivers. While efforts are underway to clean up these vital waterways, the task is immense. The divers’ actions, though driven by economic necessity, serve as a stark reminder of the environmental challenges facing the country.

Despite the hardships, Ramu and his fellow divers remain resilient. They are a testament to the enduring human spirit, willing to risk everything for a chance at a better future. As the sun sets on the Yamuna, casting a golden glow on the water, Ramu prepares for another day of searching, hoping to uncover a treasure that will change his life – and perhaps, shed light on the hidden stories held within India's rivers.